ateliertammam

A web log about putting decadence in a small sustainable package. www.tammam.co.uk

Category: Uncategorized

How can I resist you?!

Over a couple of months in spring the Atelier Tammam team were working on a very special project for an incredible actress, who agreed to let us share the steps involved in creating her couture gown.
Natalie O’Donnell came in requesting a red carpet worthy outfit after being cast as Donna Sheridan, the main Mamma, in the upcoming Australian revival of the show, Mamma Mia!

 

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 Natalie tried on a range of gowns to determine which shapes, colours and fabrics worked together to create her dream dress.
After taking a few vital statistics Miss T sketched up the ideas for Natalie’s couture gown, a tea-length dark blue peace silk dress combining two signature Tammam styles, the Asp dress and the beautifully detailed fan feature of an archive gown.
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Sketch!

Our pattern cutter used Natalie’s measurements to create her own bespoke perfect block, which her unique design patterns were formed around.
Once the paper pattern was finished and the calico cloth cut, it was passed over to Katherine, one of our talented seamstresses, to make a toile, a mock-up dress, to ensure the best fit before cutting in the final fabric.
Natalie came in for a toile fitting and Miss T skilfully adjusted the pattern to her liking ensuring the most striking feature, the pleating on the bodice, lay beautifully around Natalie’s curves.
The toile was then marked, unpicked and used to cut the final fabric. Once the fabric was cut Katherine worked with traditional hand stitching haute couture techniques to baste the layers of the dress together and stitch the seams, ready for another fitting.
The next fitting concentrated on checking the line and fit of the dress in the final fabrics. Once this was confirmed Katherine stitched the dress together perfectly and pinned the pleats ready for the  penultimate fitting.
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One more fitting was need to ensure the pleats sat smoothly and enhanced the shape of Natalie’s body, at this stage the hem length was also confirmed.
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   Katherine dedicated hours to marking every pleat and detail in colour coded threads to ensure the final stitching held the pleats perfectly aligned.
All the finishing touches took even more hours of detailed hand stitching ready for the final fitting and collection.
Once the gown was complete, Natalie came for a final fitting – giving it a last try to check it fit like a hand made, haute couture, bespoke glove – which it did! Natalie promptly whisked the spectacular dress off to Australia, where she is soon to start rehearsals for the show. The dress will appear on a red carpet soon, we’ll post a picture when it does….
That’s it from me, my adventure at Tammam has ended, what a journey it has been!
Love,
Nyleeta

Tammam is ten, Atelier is five and a Boutique is born

The newly opened Atelier Tammam Boutique, based in our Hastings Street showroom, offers the best of independent and emerging sustainable designer talent.

Screen Shot 2017-04-15 at 09.05.11Within the boutique you can find some of our favourites from the Pop-Up shops we’ve hosted over the last couple of years – Nancy Dee, Cecilia Hammarborg, Deborah Campbell, Outsider, as well as new brands who we bring in and alternate regularly, in store now are the likes of Duskies, Komana, Fashion Compassion and Realm of Treasure.

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The pieces are carefully curated to ensure we are offering our customers an incredible selection of timeless ready to wear outfits suitable for a sustainable wardrobe and every occasion.

As part of our commitment to sustainability, the boutique only stocks garments and accessories that have been made already (we don’t order anything that has to be produced for us). This ensures less unnecessary products are created, AND we often have incredible one off samples and still relevant (we hand pick everything to ensure this) past season pieces (which mean low prices and incredible value) as well as this seasons must haves.

 

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Here at Tammam we also offer beautiful sustainable fabrics, now available to purchase by the metre. We have offered a popular wholesale fabrics and consultancy service for the last few years, working with many independent designers to develop and apply sustainable supply chains to their businesses. Due to popular demand we now have all our stock fabric on display in the showroom, to buy off the roll during Boutique opening hours. From hand loomed peace silk to duchess satin to organic cotton and even recycled polyester, we have the highest quality materials, just waiting for you to unleash your creativity on.

 

While our luxurious fabrics are imported from around the world, all Tammam couture is created in our Bloomsbury studio, here in London.

Atelier Tammam creates bespoke garments tailored to fit each individual body and unique style. Whether you’re meeting the queen or going to a casual dinner, we offer personal and timeless perfect creations that are tailored to fulfill your every need. The couture process is intense, involving many fittings, a paper pattern, calico toile and finished dress – but it’s worth it – ask any one of our customers and they’ll tell you nothing compares to a bespoke dress.

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For those with less time, or lower budgets we have dress making services and offer alterations and repairs – to keep those well loved items going as long as possible.

For vintage repair needs, Splendid Stitches, London’s leading specialist in vintage clothing alterations and repairs works in-house with us – between us there is pretty much nothing we can’t make or fix!

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This week we are hosting a Sustainable Summer Shopping Experience, Friday 14th July from 5pm at the Atelier, join us for organic wine, first choice of new stock from all our designers and extra discounts on the night. To keep up to date with events join our mailing list.

See you there!

Love Nyleeta

An invitation into Atelier Tammam today

 

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Welcome to Atelier Tammam

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The beautiful Atelier Tammam store front today

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The Boutique is open! Visit us in Bloomsbury…

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Visit our in house vintage clothing alterations and repairs specialist – the wonderful Splendid Stitches

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Haute Couture embroidered coat dress from our archive

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This week’s stylishly curated outfit in the boutique window

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Dior is couture, not sure what you want in your sartorial choices, from expert advice to research material, we’ll help you find and create your perfect wardrobe

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Keeping it simple – nude colours

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Summer brights – a colourful combination of designer garments

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Compliment your outfit with Duskies sunglasses

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Our timeless wedding gowns

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Pattern Cutter working hard

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Many hands make light work

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Couture hand stitching on a celebrity red carpet gown

From the tranquil boutique to the bustling atelier, a day in the life here at the House of Tammam.

Love,

Nyleeta

Atelier Tammam Saves the (Wedding) Day

Recently a distraught bride came to see us in the Atelier with two wedding gowns, both had been ruined by an amateur seamstress and a dodgy dry cleaner, in a failed attempt to perfect them for her big day. Luckily our team were able to correct the worst of these problems in just a few days, in time for the bride to catch her train to Paris for her beautiful wedding.

The gowns were samples purchased in near perfect condition. The bride was advised to have them dry cleaned, unaware that doing so can sometimes change the quality of the fabric.

During the process of shortening the first gown, from Tea length to knee length, the dress was unevenly cut, leaving ragged edges and a very upset bride.

Our cutter expertly re-cut the hem with the skills comparable to any petit mains of a Parisian haute couture atelier.

Even worse than the uneven edges, the two inner linings were accidentally stitched together, lifting the hem line in places and creating visible bunching.

Our seamstress skillfully unpicked the stitches and reassembled the side seems, allowing the hemline to straighten out and the skirt to lay flat over the hips.

Our seamstresses came to the rescue once again for gown two. The dress was carelessly washed and handled before it came to us resulting in tears on the bodice.

We hand appliquéd spare lace flowers, to reinforce and disguise the holes.

 

The new belt which had been created for the dress puckered and lay unevenly. Our experienced vendeuse instantly recognised the problem and released a few stitches, allowing the belt to lay flat, creating a smoother line.

 

It’s the small details that can really make a dress work, the flowers on the bodice had been attached sporadically and unevenly, making the dress look messy and inexpensive. A few slight adjustments and a keen eye perfected the bodice and made our bride very happy.

While Atelier Tammam is renowned for it’s bespoke creations, we are always happy to come to the rescue and offer repairs and alterations of the highest standard. The Atelier also has an in-house vintage specialist – Splendid Stitches. Let no gown go un-loved or unworn again!

Love,

Nyleeta

 

Team Tammam Spring 2017

Well it’s been a while since my last Web Log. It has been an exhilarating time at the Atelier and the One Dress project has been all consuming, with a fabulous trip to India, two successful Crowdfunder campaigns and work in progress showcases here and abroad, since my last post.

I’m very excited to introduce the wonderful Nyleeta, who will be taking over the Web Log while she is on placement with us over the summer months.

Yours in Sustainability

Ms Tammam

 

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The latest batch of Tammam interns met for the first time at an iconic London retail location to get to know each other and gain some insight into the world of high end fashion before the hard work of the next few weeks begins.

Every season the atelier offers placements to both technical studio and administrative students, to offer them invaluable work experience within the fashion industry.

 

Meet the team.

Appa, the ambitious Norwegian studying pattern design in Denmark.

She has great attention for detail and loves an organised work space, she is used to using advanced technology to design and create patterns but here at atelier Tammam she is gaining knowledge of how to create traditional manual patterns for haute couture.

Here she is analysing the structure of a ball gown.

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I am Nyleeta, described by my colleagues as “the diligent Brit” studying Fashion Management and marketing in London. I have been tasked over the next few months to write this blog for Tammam, as well as work on some of our upcoming events.

On our expedition, I fell in love with this beautiful gown and wanted to purchase it but the price tag said no.

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Katherine, the adventurous country girl from Oregon, soon to be studying at the Fashion institute of technology in New York, is a meticulous seamstress eager to learn the tricks of the trade from Ms Tammam.

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Tina, the unassuming Italian/ Lebanese fashionista, is studying fashion management and marketing in London.

She has an abstract way of viewing the world and aims to bring innovative ways to market the boutique during her placement.

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We gave ourselves the nickname, The Tammam Secret Agents because we spent the whole day looking at other designers gowns inside and out, as well as how they display them, and got many ideas to implement during our placements.

We all seemed to agree that the quality of the designer clothing we saw was not fair value for money and in comparison to the quality of the handmade gowns offered by atelier Tammam, there was no match.

I’m really excited for what the next few weeks have in store and I look forward to writing the next post.

love,

Nyleeta

 

One Dress

Where did the summer go?  The Atelier has been in a flurry of excitement for the past few weeks, working on a new project that will be launched at the FiLiArt show (which I’ve been joyfully co-curating) in December, .

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One Dress is a textiles art piece, symbolic of women’s voices – A single dress to be embroidered fully both in the UK and at fair trade units in India and Africa with words of equality and solidarity, chosen by people from around the world.

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The initial project is now 50% funded thanks to Arts Council UK. Be one of the very first to choose a word or sentence for the dress and support some positivity!

Read more in my latest weblog for Huffington Post.

But that’s not all! In order to counter Black Friday madness we’re holding a little, calm and conscious, soirée to open our festive pop-up shop of indie brands and eco designers. Get tickets here (includes mulled wine). The pop-up will be open until the 12th December, and new stock will be added throughout the sale. We’re promising perfect presents and glamorous party gowns from the best sustainable designers around.xmas.png

 

Yours in One Dress

Ms Tammam

 

Best of British – Indies in LA

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We’re back from our fabulous jaunt to LA and thrown straight into Fashion Revolution Week. Join us and the wonderful British indie designers from Moda360 at our Conscious Pop Up Shop at Atelier Tammam all week, as we ask “Who Made My Clothes?”

Yours in the Revolution!

Ms Tammam

Fashion, Art, DC, LA, Vegans and more Art

As Fair Fashion Month came to an end, life at the Atelier got quite busy. For my last day of Fair Fashion Month I visited Winchester School of Art to discuss sustainable fashion with the Ethical Hedonist in front of their fashion students, then dashed over to St Pancras Renaissance to run the second Life Drawing and Fashion Illustration Masterclass.

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Day thirty I wore my trusty Beyond Skin brogues, a vintage dress coat over my black organic cotton skirt. The Houndstooth Coat from the Atelier’s couture collection with a Bourgeois Boheme belt and Tammam peace silk scarf. Holding my Matt & Nat hand bag wth a Fab India clutch tucked inside. Of course, the final picture was taken with the ultimate eco accessory – the Fairphone 2.

I absolutely loved showing off my ethical wardrobe. I adore creating different looks from the same staple pieces (using accessories to update a simple dress is very Coco Chanel), and I do appreciate I have an advantage – having the whole Atelier Tammam hire collection at my disposal! All these Tammam pieces are available to hire, we’ll have the full wardrobe available to view on line soon, in the meantime send Kim an email (info@tammam.co.uk) if you want to borrow anything.

With the end of Fair Fashion Month came the judging for A Sustainable World 2016 – our annual Art competition which attracts applicants from across the world. I was honoured to be joined on the judging panel by my current collaborator from across the pond, renowned vegan artist Dana Ellyn, and London’s King of conceptual art Duggie Fields. Many thanks to both of them.

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The winning entry came from eco artist Celia Gregory, of the Marine Foundation – she creates underwater art installations that turn into sustainable habitats for marine life and eco tourist attractions for coastal communities. This image will be showcased in Washington DC and Los Angeles next month.

Apart from being a beautiful image with a wonderful sustainable story, we also loved that the theme goes so well with the collaboration Dana and I are working on – our art / fashion collection inspired by bycatch and the fishing industry. Entitled Bycatch By Hand we’ll be showing at the P street Gallerie in Washington DC on 1st and 2nd April and at Moda360 in Los Angeles on 4th and 5th April.

A Sustainable World Art competition is over for another year, many thanks for all the applications, huge congratulations to our shortlisted entrants, especially Ronan McGeough and Philp McCulloch-Downs our 2nd and 3rd place finalists.

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Also a tremendous thank you to Clearspring who generously contributed to the prizes for the winners.

For the twitteratipinterested and Instagrammers keep up to date with all our shenanigans @HouseOfTammam.

Yours in (sustainable) art,

Ms Tammam

Me and My Fairphone

I have fallen in love with the Fairphone and it’s fabulous pictures of us (and my FairFash outfits). As I prepare for our trip to Washington DC and Los Angeles in a couple of weeks, this week I’ve mostly been working on the collaborative project with renowned vegan artist, Dana Ellyn. We will be showcasing at P street Gallerie in Washington DC and at the Moda360 event in LA. We are working on 3 pieces together, 2 gowns stitched at the atelier and one painting by Dana – I’m waiting for it to arrive so I can start embellishing it. Today I sent off one of the gowns for Dana to start painting on. God speed FedEx…

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There’s a lot of hard work going on but I did manage to escape to attend the Sustainable City Awards. Day twenty-three, and a glamorous ensemble of Atelier Tammam peace silk and hand embroidered feather appliqué bias cut dress, with a hand printed peace silk wrap. Vintage tights (found in a charity shop in Dorset) and my bespoke vegan Hetty Rose Sandals. The powder room at Mansion House is quite something!

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Day twenty-four back at the Atelier to get on with some work, wearing one of my favourite dresses by an immensely talented ethical designer who is no longer in business… the curse of the indies – but her talent lives on in these fabulous dresses. Very old tights (lots of darning in the toes keeping them going for years and years) and my Beyond Skin brogues. That rug is also fair trade – made for me by a co-operative in Eastern India using peace silk yarns.

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Having an art moment at the weekend, wearing an organic cotton People Tree top (made at one of the factories I also work with – I love how transparent People Tree are about production) and Tammam scarf on day twenty-five.

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Day twenty-six was Mother’s Day so I put Tammini in her own bespoke organic, fair trade cotton LBD, and wore mine too.

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We are also thinking about wedding season and the new bridal collection which we are shooting next week. Here I am on Day twenty-seven with some couture bridal gowns, wearing old Levis, a Tammam scarf, Nancy Dee top and Miksani cardigan.

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Day twenty-eight no time for relaxing, but a quick rest to take today’s picture. Wearing a Wunderwerk cardigan, Tammam skirt and scarf and People Tree top. Bourgeois Boheme boots finish the look.

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The penultimate day of FairFashMonth!! Day twenty-nine I’m so eager for spring I’ve donned my NAE vegan sandals and a little jacket made for one of the early collections for Tam & Rob – my first label (which was also ethical). Worn with the Levis and a Tammam peace silk scarf. You can just see, in the cabinet, some of the gorgeous new jewellery we’ve got in from Michelle Krausz  who creates exquisite bridal accessories from vintage finds.

 

For the twitteratipinterested and Instagrammers keep up to date with all our shenanigans @HouseOfTammam.

Yours in Fairphone appreciation

Ms Tammam

Fair Fashion Month continues

Fashion week sped past like a sartorial whirlwind, and now we are preparing for an even more exciting event; Our upcoming trip to Washington DC and Los Angeles to collaborate and exhibit with renowned vegan artist, Dana Ellyn and showcase at the Moda360 event. With that, creating a couture wardrobe for Sian Berry, green candidate for London Mayor, a plethora of bridal orders and an ever increasing order book I’ve been buried under a pile of patterns, fabrics, scissors and fastenings. Pretty much tied to my cutting table…however I have managed to grab the Fairphone every day to take a snap of my eco outfit.

 

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Day sixteen back in an LBD (Little Bespoke Dress – available from the Atelier now and launching to the masses soon) in organic fair trade cotton – We made an LBD for Jenny Agutter last year. Worn here with Beyond Skin Brogues and a Wunderwerk cardigan.

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Day seventeen time for a treat at one of my favourite (vegetarian) eateries, Mildreds, who have opened a branch in Kings Cross, just five minutes away from the Atelier. (If you can’t find me at lunch time, you know where I’ll be). A distinct lack of mirrors meant I had to take this with the front camera on the Fairphone. Wearing a wonderful fair trade hand knitted jumper dress by, the no longer running label, Miksani and a Tammam Scarf. Still grateful to the fabulous Lamphane at Michael Van Clarke for my perfect hair cut.

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Saturday evening at home on day eighteen wearing a Tammam skirt in organic fair trade cotton, a Nancy Dee top and a hand printed scarf from India.

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A quick visit to the Atelier (on a Sunday!) during day nineteen, feeling inspired by the art deco wardrobe stuffed full of bridal gowns (including my vintage collection) and wearing retro Tammam peace silk trousers and organic cotton top, and a cardigan made of spun nettle and hemp yarns sourced from a family yarn supplier in Nepal – I remember taking sacks of these yarns through the streets of Kathmandu on a cycle rikshaw about 10 years ago, to be knitted by a wonderful fair trade company I work with there – I called this the Mokey cardigan because it reminded me of the character from Fraggle Rock – ever the artist, I aim to inspire! The necklace was a gift, when I was working at a bespoke menswear tailor in Rome, far too long ago to remember, and the broach is vintage.

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It’s definitely hurtling towards wedding season so on day twenty  here I am amongst some of our current samples. It was a business meeting day so I wore my Nancy Dee purple jersey dress.

 

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Day twenty-one, trying on part of the collaboration outfit for the USA. This organic fair trade cotton skirt is going to be sent off to Dana soon for her to paint, while I’m eagerly awaiting a beautiful painting of hers to embellish. The corset made from British tulle, will create the underpinnings for another part of the collaboration. I am thoroughly enjoying working with Dana and loving that technology is enabling us to work in this way, maybe I’m not such a technophobe after all – has the Fairphone changed me?!

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Because I like to keep busy, I agreed, on day twenty-two, to teach a life drawing and fashion illustration class at the awesome St Pancras Renaissance Hotel as the inaugural Masterclass for their new series of events. It was really fun with a great crowd and fabulous life model. There are three more complimentary classes in March – book tickets to secure a place or join us back at the Atelier when Fashion & Life Drawing classes start again in April. Wearing a Nancy Dee dress, with Bourgeois Boheme boots and Tammam scarf and cardigan. My marvellous mannequin is adorned in Tammam haute couture.

More next week. For the twitteratipinterested and Instagrammers there will be daily pictures @HouseOfTammam.

Yours in fair fashion – for the busy couturier,

Ms Tammam